Category: travel

Part I: South Africa with Kruger Park

The advice for travel with grandchildren was to have as little expectations as possible so as not to be disappointed. Easy to say, hard to counteract the: “It took a lot of effort and money, so you kids are gonna have a good time, damn it!”

So can you really not have expectations and dreams of if not a perfect, at least a great and memorable trip with your grandkids? Much is riding on this mutual experience, beyond monetary sacrifice. You want to build life long memories of grandpa and grandma outside of baking cookies or playing cards together.

You want to ignite in your grandchildren the love of travel and adventure. The appreciation of Nature and importance of the conservation of said Nature. The understanding of human diversity, yet interconnectedness. The recognition and gratitude for the immense privileges you were born with and the responsibility to make at least a small contribution to improving the lives of those less fortunate. Haha, talk about lowering your expectation, eh?!

Did we achieve all of that on our trip to Southern Africa? Time will tell, but we sure tried. For now we are thankful that the grandkids were open, cooperative, engaged and all-around easier than we worried.

At 9 and 13 Leopold and Lilly seemed old enough to enjoy and remember their first African safari. We were in the middle of an ordinary lazy summer, sleeping late, swimming, kicking the ball around, and they too often clicking on their tablets, when without any warning we dropped a bomb: “We would like to take the kids to Africa. What do you think?”

The kids agreed without batting an eye. Their dad quickly chimed in, “Wait, I want to go, too!” Their often overprotective mom, who doesn’t much like to travel and absolutely hates to fly was left speechless. We knew we would need her permission, but were totally flabbergasted when the next day the news came that not only she would let them go, but she would join us as well.

Truth be told this wasn’t entirely a spur-of-a-moment invitation. Secretly, this idea brewed for a while, especially since special friends of ours, Yvonne and Helmo, who were already twice our fantastic guides in Africa, have just opened a small family lodge close to Kruger National Park. These two first took us and our three girls on a long camping safari across Africa nearly 20 years ago. Then together we celebrated Mirek’s 60th birthday with a fun road trip from South Africa to Mozambique.

Now Yvonne was helping us put an exciting itinerary together, while alas, Helmo was away leading a birding safari in Angola.

For this virgin Africa trip I gathered a comfortable and simple itinerary would be best. We would spend 5 days in South Africa at Affrican Affair Bush Lodge with daily activities suggested by Yvonne and then fly to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Of course, it would be quite unlike Grandma to not immediately start embellishing and expanding the itinerary. Oh, y’all thought you were going on on a holiday?

There is practically no time difference, why would we need a rest day? We came to see the wild animals, so you better get up at 4:30 am for a safari not just once, but twice. We have a free morning, why not visit a local non profit organization? It has been arranged, great! Now kids, go through your toys, games and clothes and pack up a duffle bag of donations.

And since Vic Falls are also on the other side of the border in Zambia let’s get a KAZA (multiple entry visa) and cross over to Zambia, too. Would you like more stamps in your passport? It’s only an hour drive in the other direction to Botswana border so let’s organize a safari to Chobe National Park there. Luckily Yvonne recommended Israel, her fabulous agent in Zimbabwe, who was happy to arrange anything and everything.

It has been my tradition lately to print coffee table photo books of our trips so I announced this to the family and asked for contributions: the kids were to keep a short journal every night and move three of the best shots they took to a special folder on their iPhones. Surprisingly without much complaining or much reminding they delivered.

The small lodge was the most perfect place we could have stayed at. The four bedrooms

were arranged around the central courtyard with the outdoor dining table, bbq

area and a small plunge pool. Despite middle of the winter the temperatures unexpectedly soared towards 40C so the swimming suits did come in handy.

As did the puffy jackets and warm clothes for the early morning safari rides.

The main house had a large kitchen, living and dining room and Yvonne spoiled us with wonderful meals. She made sure there were always french fries available for the kids, in addition to some more exotic fare.

The big glass backdoor opening to the wilderness was the very best feature of our little lodge. As veggie and fruit scraps as well as bird seed was placed outside there was a constant parade of all sorts of animals up close and personal.

One afternoon we even had a surprising visit of three friendly giraffes who came to nibble on our trees.

As giraffes are my favorite animals this was really a very special treat for me.

The very first evening we happily introduced our family to an old African tradition of sundowners (a sunset accompanied by a drink, preferably alcoholic) by a small pond on the wilderness estate where we were treated to the comical sight of giraffes drinking. Because of their very long legs and necks they have to crouch down knock- kneed. To see wild life on foot is an extremely exciting privilege.

We delayed our first real Kruger NP safari by first taking a boat trip on nearby Blyde River Canyon on the first full day of our stay.

It is one of the largest canyons in the world and one of the greenest because of the subtropical vegetation. A little less green because of the lack of rains this winter.

It was especially fun because we could ride on top of the roof.

Here the kids were introduced to crocodiles and hippos for the first time. Those firsts were very gratifying to the seasoned safari grandparents. Though personally I still get excited anew on every safari drive.

After a delicious lunch and an informative chat with the owner of the mango plantation

we headed to nearby Moholoholo Rehabilitation Center, where we all learned much about the rescue and protection of animals on an extensive close up and personal tour. It was especially thrilling to observe all the cats as those are difficult to see in nature.

The excitement of the first real safari

was well, real.

Getting up at 4:30 am and driving like maniacs in the dark we were the first to enter Kruger National park that morning and were rewarded by the magical sunrise. Our guide stopped at the side of the road so we could marvel at the blood-red ball bouncing up from the horizon.

Right away we encountered elephants with their young which elicited many oh and ahs.

Zebras and antelopes were plentiful

but due to heat and no rain, the cats were elusive. We saw a leopard’s kill hanging up on a high tree branch but were told by other visitors that the mama leopard and her cub were hiding in the bushes by the river with their bellies full.

The second time in Kruger we were lucky to see one rather tired old lion that not very royalty limped into the shade and plopped down for a nap. After all, lions spend on average of 20 hours a day sleeping.

We spent an hour just sitting above a dam observing with and without binoculars the many animals coming for a drink while crocodiles and hippos lazed about. Throngs of kudu, waterbuck and zebras took turns to drink. The best show was put on by a herd of elephant matriarchs, daughters, and babies who marched from the bushes to the waterfront while all the other animals in their path respectfully gave defference.

On another ocassion on an evening safari with more sundowners

at a nearby private reserve, we had a close encounter with a small group of bachelor elephants having their evening snacks, not entirely happy with our presence. One of them even decided to flap his ears and charge at us.

But of course our very experienced guide was careful to hightail it out of his way. Elephants are strong and fast and smart and can easily overturn a vehicle. The destruction of uprooted and trampled trees they leave in their wake is devastatingly extensive.

We made another visit to the Blyde River Canyon this time from the rim. It was stupendous from the top as well. Mirek and I reminisced how at our first visit 15 years ago with Helmo and Yvonne the fog was so dense we barely knew the canyon was there.

Now we had dazzling panoramic vistas.

“Look, there is the launching pad where we started out boat voyage the other day.”

So many new things to enthrall: unknown Protea trees with strange flowers,

Rock formations at the nearby Bourke’s luck Potholes

and tantalizing colorful handicrafts.

One morning we left the boys to sleep in and relax while the girls took the duffel bag full of donations and drove to the non-profit Nourish where we promised to support their chili growing project.

We were warmly greeted by the young director and shown the many different initiatives helping the local community.

We left donations with the staff to distribute as and when they see fit and were first taken to visit their community preschool.

The little munchkins showed off with loud singing. We thought our eardrums would burst. The director told us an interesting insight: it is quite common that tots and preschoolers in the villages are pretty much ignored and they oftentimes barely speak when they first join the preschool. Hence the encouragement to be loud and expressive so as to give them a voice.

In true exuberant African spirit everyone was excited to meet us.

We were even invited to the open kitchen.

They foolishly let us try our hand at mixing it. You wouldn’t believe what strength it takes to move the large quantity of sticky porridge!

What was extraordinarily special was that Yvonne and I were reunited with an old friend Tembi, who drove two hours each way to meet us at Nourish.

For Mirek’s 60th birthday gift, Yvonne and Helmo arranged the building of a playground at a preschool for children with Hiv parents. Tembi was the director there. When asked what we could bring the children she suggested shoes. We brought a duffel bag of donated shoes from a preschool in our community. The memory of little tots patiently waiting their turn to choose a favorite pair will forever be seared in my heart.

What a memorable and insightful morning this was for all of us!

In only 5 short days we packed in so many sights and experiences. And still managed a few vacation mode relaxing moments. Now let’s hop on the plane to Zimbabwe!