We enter through one of the more spectacular gates into any town I have ever seen.
We cross over a wooden bridge.
As we look down into the Vltava river Mirek says: “Last time I was here, I took a canoe on the river with a friend. Man, it was fun, we went under on those rapids over there.”
That was about 50 years ago. He has never taken me to Česky Krumlov. Why would we have not visited this picture postcard perfect, romantic, medieval fairytale town, when we have explored pretty much any castle ruin and half decent village the breadth and width of the country?
Because yearly 2 million selfie stick yielding tourists cram into the tiny town and about 16,000 tourist buses fight for parking. It is a postcard perfect case of over tourism. Or let me say, it was.
Because today there is nobody there. Not a soul.
Actually, I exaggerate. But indeed, when all is said and done, we meet less than a dozen people in the whole afternoon.
The streets are abandoned. It is eerily quiet. The town looks like a movie set after the end of a film shoot.
Everything is shut down.
All shops,
restaurants
coffee shops,
B&Bs
and hotels
are closed until further notice.
With the bizarre exception of
The one place we are really sorry to see closed is the Austrian painter Egon Schiele’s museum.
He lived in the town as a young man for a little bit, scandalizing the conservative society with his art and relationships.
On the riverbank in the only open coffee-to-go place we order two cappuccinos and chat with the proprietor. “Even in the dead of winter, it has never been like this,” he says.
It is a gorgeous spring day in April. Some of the early trees are in full bloom.
It is a photographer’s paradise.
No one to jostle with at the panorama points,
on the narrow cobbled streets,
or staircases
Anywhere you look something colorful and charming is vying for your attention:
Reflections in
Water fountains
Pigeon feathers
Sewer covers
Abstract patterns
Why not?
For once I am not interested in the history of the nobility or clergy or the burghers. I am perfectly content to just wander around.
We are surprised to find the door to the church open
As we climb higher and higher we are even more surprised that the gates to the four successive courtyards of the enormous castle sitting above the town, are wide open as well.
There might be no exposition but we don’t mind one bit. And yes, we do have our face masks!
We will just take some more pictures, thank you very much.
Peek through a few windows
Wow, what a spectacular, expansive view!
And then for contrast a sweet little courtyard.
Above the castle are vast renaissance gardens to stroll through.
If your feet are not hurting yet.
Ours are… so:
Goodbye beautiful, little fairytale town! May the sun shine over you.
We couldn’t have been happier to have visited, face masks and all!
Crazy Parents Travel 
All so beautiful but I missed what country you are visiting. Is it Czechoslovakia?
LikeLike
Actually we are in the Czech Republic (formerly western part of Czechoslovakia). We ended up here after leaving Argentina in the middle of the Coronavirus havoc a month ago. With very limited options to chose from (no direct flights between Argentina and the US and EU) we escaped on one of the last overseas flights from Buenos Aires to Istanbul and on to Prague. The story was covered in one of our previous blogs called “I Cry for You Argentina, I Had to Leave You” posted on March 22. We have been in Prague ever since with the Czech borders closed and country under the State of Emergency.
Mirek
LikeLike
Wow – so crazy to see it so empty! A great place to keep perfecting all of your photography skills. Love all of the detail shots from the church ceiling to the sewer coverings.
Love,
Lani
LikeLike
Thanks, darling. I have been taking an iphonography class online and implementing some new tricks.
LikeLike
Aaaa, that explains ! Cool!
LikeLike
processing this in awe!
Here a link for those who love art and are stuck at home (um, everyone?). I just heard about it and it looks cool! https://www.europeana.eu/en?fbclid=IwAR0oCZsuMzAiekfydBOkSit5P7jkxgSEreBEPvJqsPFFnhONEjhtYglbVvQ
LikeLike
Thanks Karin, for sharing the link. It is mind blowing how creative people are and are flooding every portal and website with stay home activities and suggestions. I can’t follow even all the traveling site emails that are flooding in with virtual travel.
LikeLike
PS no “quarantine shaming” in CZ?! Here (in Austria) one is poopoo-ed for leaving the county (not a typo with no “r”), so much so, that our teenagers dismiss our offers for a ride to town – even they are worried of being involved in a non-essential escapade!
LikeLike
The shaming here is reserved for those who don’t wear face coverings. Even when they legitimately don’t have to while exercising for example. A friend of mine had a bucket of water dropped on her head by a neighbor while running on an empty street by her house. Restrictions here are being slowly lifted and compared to Austria or Slovenia we never had prohibitions from leaving your home county.
LikeLike
Glad you both could enjoy the city, even with it being “closed”! I love the architecture .., and your photography. You bring everything to life with your photos!
LikeLike
Thank you. It is my only creative outlet and it is fun to look for special angles and shots.
LikeLike
Picture perfect with nary a tourist in sight. Really one for the books. Who knew how gorgeous this town is in lockdown.
LikeLike
Truly beautiful – amazing, Gail
LikeLike
Thanks you, Gail. I waited long enough …
LikeLike
Beautiful photos. They remind us of our visit to Prague…..there were many more people when we were there. Even the sky was perfect. We’re so happy you can enjoy an extended visit.
Tom and Maryellen
LikeLike
Dear Tom, how nice to see our little post brought back good travel memories for you. Take care and let’s hope we all travel again soon!
LikeLike
AWESOME! What an almost surreal experience in your “fairytale town”…fantastic fotoz!!! This was a “once in a lifetime” opportunity to B AWAY from that maddening crowd of tourists in such a magical place …out of the history books. U took us on a journey through time…I was waiting for that “knight in shining armor” to come prancing around the corner…lance in hand, on his mighty steed! Thanks for sharing this unforgettable experience…
K.
LikeLike
My knight was there all along with his iPhone in hand. 😉 thanks for letting us know you enjoyed the journey back in time.
LikeLike
Thank you for sharing these beautiful pictures!! I love it. being sheltered in place we NEED this out-burst of JOY & Beauty …. Thank you & be safe
LikeLike
Susan, We feel very fortunate that things are starting to look up and up. More restrictions are being lifted and we have hope that by summer life will be back to normal. I do hope you will soon follow suit.
LikeLike
How wonderful to see such a pristine city even if just in the moment of time. Life here is very quiet. The biggest event this week was a brief garage visit in four corners but it was nice to just be in the presence of others. My garden is going to be in the best shape ever as there is no outside activity and lots of time to work on those things.
Stay safe and enjoy. Laura
Laura Wittenberg, MFT 7 Mariposa Lane Orinda, CA 94563
AAUW-OML Liaison Saint Mary’s College of Moraga laura.wittenberg.mft@gmail.com 925-788-0901
Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments, is for the sole use of intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 2:54 PM Crazy Parents Travel wrote:
> ksenija+mirek olmer posted: ” We enter through one of the more spectacular > gates into any town I have ever seen. We cross over a wooden bridge. As we > look down into the Vltava river Mirek says: “Last time I was here, I took a > canoe on the river with a friend. Man, it w” >
LikeLike
So wonderful you have your beautiful garden. Still lots of berries in it?
LikeLike
We loved the town when we visited about 5 years ago, fortunately for us we went in the mid season and stayed in a lovely BnB run by a local doctor/dentist couple. I couldn’t get enough of the painted brick wall facades, my first comprehensive look at the stunning Gothic Architecture.
LikeLike
Hi Jenny, so nice to hear from you. Now all the B&Bs are closed of course. How are you faring in Tasmania?
LikeLike
So amazing! I’m very jealous that you got to see this town so blissfully tourist-free.
On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 2:53 PM Crazy Parents Travel wrote:
> ksenija+mirek olmer posted: ” We enter through one of the more spectacular > gates into any town I have ever seen. We cross over a wooden bridge. As we > look down into the Vltava river Mirek says: “Last time I was here, I took a > canoe on the river with a friend. Man, it w” >
LikeLike
Love the photos! Vau. Might consider that photography class. When is the photo-book coming out??
LikeLike
Thanks for the compliment. I have been looking into photo books. Too many choices, as usual! 😉
LikeLiked by 1 person
No no, I am thinking a proper one… one with a proper publisher and all.
LikeLike
Hi Ksenija and Mirek, We met you once back in Clayton, CA at our mutual friend’s(Lenka and Larry) house. We are here happily in Vienna during the coronavirus and are glad to be here rather than the US. We have visited Prague but can’t wait to go see more of Czechia as soon as the borders open again. We have been living here for over a year now and LOVE it!!!
Kris and John Porcella
LikeLike
Yes, I remember. I actually asked Lenka about you the other day. I am glad you enjoy Vienna. I know your restrictions are much stricter than ours in Czech Republic. We have been doing lots of exploring. Another post coming up soon with cute villages. Keep well!
LikeLike